Diamonds Don't Lie

Diamonds Don't Lie

If there is something that I find fascinating it's diamonds. Diamonds are really my passion and my forte as a jeweller. I spend hours every day in my microscope studying diamonds. People often don't associate jewellers with microscopes but they should. I would not be able to do my job competently without a microscope. What about a loupe? Yes, I also use mine daily but to get a really specific look at the intricacies of diamonds my microscope is my best friend.

I went to the GIA in New York city for my diamond grading certification. The GIA stands for Gemological Institute of America. I believe that the GIA is the standard by which all jewellers learn. I loved it! I graded diamonds all day in the lab and really honed my skills. My first instructor was a GIA trained diamond grader and gemologist and a goldsmith! I am very fortunate to have started my career with a woman who had such a full background in jewellery. To say that I had an advantage over some of my classmates in New York would be fair.

That is why when this ring came into my office I was thrilled! The diamonds in this ring are old European cut. We know this by the measurements of the stones. In this case, one of the stones was replaced at some point with a modern round brilliant cut diamond but that is something that only a jeweller would notice, or maybe someone with an eye for detail. The stones were cut by hand and not my machine which is really special when you think about it. Can you imagine the skill and concentration it would take to cut a stone that was 3mm in diameter? Now imagine cutting a stone one hundred years ago, maybe by candlelight, intense isn't it? In a time when we have so many aspects of jewellery that can be automated it is really interesting to see stones from such a time ago. During the era of diamonds all being cut manually the goal was in the eye of the beholder. The stone cutters were trying to make each diamond as attractive as possible, whereas now we try to meet the criteria of angles and percentages to make a modern excellent cut grade. I do not was to simplify what goes into modern diamond cutting at all. I am mesmerized by the skills that are required today as well.  What I also find interesting is the story of where this ring was made it had been stamped on the inside and those stamps let me know the location of its birth. This ring was also made in 22k which is amazing! Pretty cool ring! The inclusions in the diamonds let me know that they were diamonds as well. Inclusions are unique in every diamond. In fact, it is each diamond is unique, no two mined diamonds will have the same inclusions in the same locations. Diamonds are so strong too.

Here is a fact that I love about diamonds, they are the hardest stone on the Moh's scale with sapphires being the next, but a diamond is more like ten times stronger than the sapphire family! When you look at the Moh's scale you can see it plainly, diamonds are incredible. So, when I look at this ring and know that it has been in a family for over one hundred years it makes my heart sing. I love knowing that with some regular care and maintenance pieces that I create can outlive me and be cared for and loved for generations.

Mohs hardness scale

Here is a link for more information about stones and durability as well.

All the best, always


Old European-Cut Diamonds: the Complete Guide - Gem Society

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